There is rigor on display at the
89th edition of the Pitti Uomo men's wear trade fair ongoing in
Florence.
The rigor of the gentleman and the soldier that conveys a
sense of quiet luxury suitable both as leisurewear and in more
formal urban surroundings next fall-winter.
Indeed the appeal of the British gentleman and the
soldier are proving immune to the seasonal cycles of designer
fashion among the over 1,200 brands showcasing their collections
at Pitti Uomo.
Silhouettes and hues inspired by military uniforms have
developed a status on par with that of the British country
gentleman, retaining prestige with men regardless of their
generation at the Florentine showcase that is running through
Friday under the Generation(s) theme.
Men will be dressed to kill in fall-winter 2016 - clad in a
Lardini jacket inspired by US air force uniforms or in a Blauer
USA field jacket designed like those donned by American police
officers, among others.
Or they will be garbed for a hunting expedition, ready to
strike a target on the field or at the office.
Jackets will be in warm cashmeres, tweeds and bouclé wools
for a rigorous winter in the outdoors while checks and glen
plaids will also make them suitable for the city.
Trouser silhouettes will be soft with traditional chinos
and macho combat pants.
Coats, the highlight of many collections, will have
high-tech anti-freeze fabrics - including Moorer which is
launching a special lining that warms up when it comes into
contact with the body.
Blauer is also debuting new coats with heated interiors
that can be regulated to three different temperatures.
Sweaters are often coordinated with coats in terms of
fabrics and colors.
Conte of Florence has launched a graphic pattern evoking
the 1950s styles donned by gentlemen in Martha's Vineyard or
Palm Beach while Cruciani has brought back the cardigan, in
cashmere, merino and baby alpaca.
Lardini's British gentleman goes military with formal suits
in glen checks mixed with oversize coats, parkas and military
jackets.
Meanwhile denim is produced with a wool weave at Roy
Roger's as the Florentine label also eyed military garb for its
gabardine parkas, and bomber jackets in nylon and cotton.
Indeed wardrobe staples such as the trench coat, husky and
parka models have been given a makeover in a number of
collections.
L.B.M.1911 is premiering field jackets, hooded parkas, down
jackets and shirts and trench coats in waterproof fabrics with a
flannel or wool lining.
Circle of Gentlemen is using velvets, Super 140 Italian
wool and tweed for its jackets, coats and waistcoats, mixing
tartan shirts with washed glen check pants.
And to finish off the gentlemanly look, hats are making a
major comeback next fall-winter.
Hatmakers Barbisio, a company founded in 1862 in Sagliano
Micca near Biella, today owned by Cappellificio Cervo, offers
clients the possibility of personalizing their hats made in
light felt and beaver cloth.
Doria 1905 is debuting a hat line in waterproof felt.
Overall, collections are offering a taste of the most
classic hats in a range of materials, from felt to velvet and
leather, as well as funkier models with patterns inspired by the
1970s.
Borsalino has launched the Urban collection, in cooperation
with ready-to-wear brand Slam Jam with its classic models in
lapin felt with dark and camel hues.
Super Duper Hats is topping its oversized hats with an
ambitious reflection on good and evil as the dichotomy of human
existence translates into a strong juxtaposition of hues - the
dark side of the color palette as opposed to candid notes of
cream and beige.
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED © Copyright ANSA
