Diversity at Miu Miu,ballet at Valentino

Cocktail dresses at Giambattista Valli

(ANSA) - Rome, March 10 - High-low notes of elegance on Wednesday played out at the Miu Miu fall 2016 show that closed Paris fashion week, the last leg of the ready-to-wear monthly showcases.
    Speaking to reporters backstage, Miuccia Prada said she wanted her collection to be fun.
    Indeed the Miu Miu lineup embraced both the bohemian and the uptown girl with pizzazz and about every fashion vibe and hue available.
    There was plenty of denim on the catwalk, from a classic jean jacket with a frilly white collar and a badge to a double-breasted boxy model fit for eveningwear. There were also shooting jackets, a key piece of Prada's hit show in Milan last week, along with argyle knits.
    Outerwear progressed to embrace as diverse offerings as waxed hunting jackets, brocade coats and fox fur.
    A number of coats and jackets were cinched at the waist with a chunky belt, another Prada signature look for next fall.
    The high-low vibe progressed throughout the show to embrace tweeds, 1970s boho maxi dresses and 1980s taffeta gowns.
    Overall, the 1980s London clubbing scene, which also made an appearance at the Isabel Marant show earlier this week, inspired the black taffeta dresses.
    The daytime tweeds instead nodded to Britain's 1980s version of the Young Fogey, a "libertarian who is not liberal, coolly religious and not a fan of modern architecture", as defined by British political columnist Alan Watkins.
    The funky Miu Miu version of this erudite conservative donned vintage-style tweed suits.
    There were also coats in velvet brocades evoking Renaissance Florence.
    There were military vibes and pearl-encrusted slides. And there were plenty of white shirts.
    A day earlier, in a ballet fouette turn worthy of the most dazzling virtuoso, Valentino gave yet another rendition of its homage to the house's Roman couture roots.
    This time, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli explored diverse dance worlds, from the Ballets Russes and New York City Ballet to Martha Graham, to deliver ethereal elegance - with a Black Swan-style edgy twist.
    There was a sense of creative urgency in the different rendition of a dancer's outfit - the warm-up clothes, the nude-color tulle dresses, the sweaters layered over tutus, the coats donned over ballet-wear.
    Footwear ranged from chunky combat boots to ballet shoes including delicate flats with studded straps and block-heel lace ups.
    Tulle gowns and light-weight skirts in a nude shade of pink ran parallel to the black offerings, including short leather skirts in silver-plated armor and a long, flowing black gown under a leather jacket.
    There were plenty of leggings under skirts - a look that also played a relevant part at Céline, another agenda-setting collection for next fall. Valentino's breathtaking homage to the dance world included its trademark decorative Roman-style patterns on long silk skirts tied with ribbons at the waist.
    Notes of color shined among the nude and black looks - notably a flowing, monastic-style mustard velvet dress.
    A studded cross-body bag tucked under the arm starred in a number of looks, its boho-patterned strap jazzing up outfits ranging from a chunky pale pink sweater delicately tied at the waist to black tailored coats.
    And as the 81 looks evolved, a perfect parallel played out on the catwalk between the tough creative effort that goes into the ethereal perfection of a choreography and a fashion collection.
    Meanwhile, the Giambattista Valli show was an ode to the perfection of a cocktail dress for any occasion.
    This key item for socialites of yore as well as young members of the jet-set - where the Roman-born designer has a staunch fan base - oozed understated Parisian elegance with an all-Italian touch for flair.
    Dresses hit just above the knee, managing to look demure and youthful at once.
    There were pleated chiffon dresses tied at the waist with black bows or flower-patterned lace.
    The delicate femininity that is a trademark of Valli played out in a floral gown with a neo-Edwardian collar, in a lace and mink coatdress and in a pleated red gown with a plunging neckline.
    Femininity permeated even more masculine looks like a duffle coat with bow fastenings or an oversized black leather jacket styled over a frilly white dress.
    The white, grey and black hues were lightened up by notes of yellow and red to complete Valli's couturier-style touch for next fall.