High-low notes of elegance on
Wednesday played out at the Miu Miu fall 2016 show that closed
Paris fashion week, the last leg of the ready-to-wear monthly
showcases.
Speaking to reporters backstage, Miuccia Prada said she
wanted her collection to be fun.
Indeed the Miu Miu lineup embraced both the bohemian and
the uptown girl with pizzazz and about every fashion vibe and
hue available.
There was plenty of denim on the catwalk, from a classic
jean jacket with a frilly white collar and a badge to a
double-breasted boxy model fit for eveningwear.
There were also shooting jackets, a key piece of Prada's
hit show in Milan last week, along with argyle knits.
Outerwear progressed to embrace as diverse offerings as
waxed hunting jackets, brocade coats and fox fur.
A number of coats and jackets were cinched at the waist
with a chunky belt, another Prada signature look for next fall.
The high-low vibe progressed throughout the show to embrace
tweeds, 1970s boho maxi dresses and 1980s taffeta gowns.
Overall, the 1980s London clubbing scene, which also made an
appearance at the Isabel Marant show earlier this week, inspired
the black taffeta dresses.
The daytime tweeds instead nodded to Britain's 1980s
version of the Young Fogey, a "libertarian who is not liberal,
coolly religious and not a fan of modern architecture", as
defined by British political columnist Alan Watkins.
The funky Miu Miu version of this erudite conservative
donned vintage-style tweed suits.
There were also coats in velvet brocades evoking
Renaissance Florence.
There were military vibes and pearl-encrusted slides.
And there were plenty of white shirts.
A day earlier, in a ballet fouette turn worthy of the most
dazzling virtuoso, Valentino gave yet another rendition of its
homage to the house's Roman couture roots.
This time, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli
explored diverse dance worlds, from the Ballets Russes and New
York City Ballet to Martha Graham, to deliver ethereal elegance
- with a Black Swan-style edgy twist.
There was a sense of creative urgency in the different
rendition of a dancer's outfit - the warm-up clothes, the
nude-color tulle dresses, the sweaters layered over tutus, the
coats donned over ballet-wear.
Footwear ranged from chunky combat boots to ballet shoes
including delicate flats with studded straps and block-heel lace
ups.
Tulle gowns and light-weight skirts in a nude shade of pink
ran parallel to the black offerings, including short leather
skirts in silver-plated armor and a long, flowing black gown
under a leather jacket.
There were plenty of leggings under skirts - a look that
also played a relevant part at Céline, another agenda-setting
collection for next fall.
Valentino's breathtaking homage to the dance world included
its trademark decorative Roman-style patterns on long silk
skirts tied with ribbons at the waist.
Notes of color shined among the nude and black looks -
notably a flowing, monastic-style mustard velvet dress.
A studded cross-body bag tucked under the arm starred in a
number of looks, its boho-patterned strap jazzing up outfits
ranging from a chunky pale pink sweater delicately tied at the
waist to black tailored coats.
And as the 81 looks evolved, a perfect parallel played out
on the catwalk between the tough creative effort that goes into
the ethereal perfection of a choreography and a fashion
collection.
Meanwhile, the Giambattista Valli show was an ode to the
perfection of a cocktail dress for any occasion.
This key item for socialites of yore as well as young
members of the jet-set - where the Roman-born designer has a
staunch fan base - oozed understated Parisian elegance with an
all-Italian touch for flair.
Dresses hit just above the knee, managing to look demure and
youthful at once.
There were pleated chiffon dresses tied at the waist with
black bows or flower-patterned lace.
The delicate femininity that is a trademark of Valli played
out in a floral gown with a neo-Edwardian collar, in a lace and
mink coatdress and in a pleated red gown with a plunging
neckline.
Femininity permeated even more masculine looks like a duffle
coat with bow fastenings or an oversized black leather jacket
styled over a frilly white dress.
The white, grey and black hues were lightened up by notes of
yellow and red to complete Valli's couturier-style touch for
next fall.
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