Prada's 'nomad' stars in Milan

Cavalli and Pucci dive into in-house history

(ANSA) - Rome, February 26 - Sexy dresses with corsets, 1950s-style full skirts, sailors' hats, Lamé Hawaian shirts, golden sandals and trekking boots were all part of Prada's storyline for fall 2016 on Thursday night.
    The fundamental concept of the collection that hit the Milan catwalk was the idea of a lifelong "vagabond", Miuccia Prada said.
    This woman pieces different mementoes of her life together and wears them like a badge of honor.
    Indeed illustrations created by Berlin-based artist Christophe Chemin for the fall 2016 men's wear carried over to the women's showcase on dresses and shirts - taking forward the nomadic theme through his surreal narrative.
    On the catwalk, a sexy and strong aesthetic coexisted with sporty and romantic notes, modern with vintage.
    There were masculine and feminine vibes, a mixture played up by accessories.
    And all the bits and pieces of the puzzle were put in place in unique Prada-style.
    The white sailors' hats first debuted at the men's wear show in January evoked the imagery of war, along with military coats.
    Nostalgia, this time on a feminine note, also resonated in the 1940s-style cocktail dresses with gold embroidery and in the full 1950s-inspired silk skirts and dresses.
    The outerwear had a contemporary vibe.
    There was an oversized tailored jacket with sleeves covered in fur and a shooting jacket belted with a canvas corset, worn over vintage-looking wool argyle tights.
    Nearly every look had a cinched waist, whether with a leather belt or corset.
    The white of corsets and hats contrasted with the dark, strong-hued palette embracing blue, black, brown, grey and red.
    Cross-body bags featured in many looks and the charm idea launched in men's wear translated into books, skeleton keys and flowers on chokers and belts.
    Footwear ranged from lace-up wedge boots to buckle pumps.
    Meanwhile on Thursday, two designers debuting their second collections for storied Florentine houses - Peter Dundas at Roberto Cavalli and Massimo Giorgetti at Emilio Pucci - dived deep into the brands' archives for inspiration.
    Dundas, who began his career at Cavalli and was formerly at Pucci, sent out a collection eyeing Art Nouveau, yet deeply rooted in the 1970s.
    The skinny velvet suits with slender flare pants and narrow-shouldered jackets evoked old-time luxury and the 1970s-boho vibe the designer has carried over from his stint at Pucci.
    There was all of Cavalli's trademark opulence in the floral patterns, the chiffon gowns, horseman's jackets and patchwork fur capes.
    Fabrics embraced tiger-striped velvet and golden lace.
    Thin sequin and animal-print scarves and python boots played up the glamorous opulence, which translated for the evening into sheer beaded gowns.
    And the 39-year-old founder of MSGM, Massimo Giorgetti, also delved deep into the archives to inject his bright vision into the aristocratic Pucci house.
    Giorgetti worked his youthful energy into the optical prints that have endeared Pucci to the jet set since the 1950s and 60s with options including mountain-range patterns.
    Indeed the starting point for the collection, Giorgetti said, were the 1960s, when Emilio Pucci first created skiwear staples like zip-up leggings.
    The homage to the house was pushed forward with the Pucci logo on silk shirts and tasseled bags.
    It was a new take on an iconic logo for a designer who first sprang to success with his MSGM label in 2009 with a playful interpretation of the Chanel jacket. And the pattern mix, the bold palette and some of the oversized silhouettes all had Giorgetti's trademark pizzazz.
    Oversized bomber jackets - one of the musts of next fall - puffer and double-breasted coats came in eye-popping hues, including red, green and yellow.
    So did the svelte leggings, the oversized ski-style sweaters and the masculine blazers styled over lurex tops.
    And the silver top over a patterned skirt, slit up for a play on the vertical and horizontal bright prints, was one of the key looks embodying the label's history and its brightly-hued present.