(by Elisa Cecchi).
Elegance is about being
unforgettable rather than noticeable, according to Giorgio
Armani, whose show closed the Milan men's wear fashion calendar
for fall-winter 2016.
Navy blue was the keystone of the collection, subtle and
universally attractive like the Armani classics that have
evolved over time at the designer's own pace.
"I take risks every time," Armani said on the sidelines of
the show Tuesday.
Safeguarding creativity while designing garments that sell
means "saying more, but not too much", according to the deacon
of Italian fashion.
Armani's fall silhouettes subtly redefined his vision of
the male body, with alpaca and cashmere the canvas on which the
designer crafted quiet variations of his brand of elegance.
Fabrics were subjected to washing procedures as they were
shaped to emphasize the figure, with boxy double-breasted
jackets broadening shoulders and pants tighter at the calf to
design the leg.
Knit blazers hugged the torso, as did sheepskin jackets,
coats and waistcoats worn on bare skin.
Patterns were inspired by North Africa, with geometric
motifs decorating cardigans, while the image of American
novelist and painter William S. Burroughs wearing a crumpled
suit and hat was part of Armani's journey for next fall.
Armani's show wrapped up Milan's men's wear shows that have
registered the elevation of loungewear as the star of
collections that were widely genderless and richly decorated.
Male and feminine were playfully intertwined in a
juxtaposition of two perspectives giving men's wear new purpose
and fluidity of expression.
And if not many men next fall will be donning a red bow
shirt under a chewing-gum pink cardigan, many might opt for the
pants in classic wools tailored like sweats or trousers cut
short to reveal feet clad in fur-lined sneakers.
Men will also have the option of broadening their shoulders
with boxy double-breasted jackets or of showing off their torsos
in slim knits.
Meanwhile coats will reign supreme, sending down jackets
packing.
Designed in a variety of styles to have the softness and
comfort of robes or to convey an austere military vibe, they
will be wardrobe staples.
So will ties, which are resisting in formalwear despite the
current genderless twist, and might be one of the few items in a
man's wardrobe women will resist stealing next fall.
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED © Copyright ANSA
