Italian fashion label
Blumarine animated its spring women's ready-to-wear collection
on Friday at Milan Fashion Week with a pragmatic, romantic
spirit.
Designer Anna Molinari, known for her hyper-feminine
aesthetic, took inspiration from the androgenous Swiss
journalist, writer and traveler Annemarie Schwarzenbach
(1908-1942).
"It is a collection that delicately reconciles opposites,
in a search for suffused elegance," said Molinari.
"Girls today all want to dress in different ways, so in the
collection there are sexy chiffon dresses and pieces that could
be haute couture for their intricate workmanship, but also wide
canvas trousers and jackets with large pockets".
Shapes are soft, like a blouse and skirt combo done in
men's shirt cloth. But Molinari's signature floral and rose
prints also graced the catwalk as well as long tulle gowns.
Giorgio Armani's younger line, Emporio Armani, dressed
models in pink and floral prints. Legs were on show, necks
adorned with large rigid scarves, and boots featured open toes.
"At a time when things are being overdone, I preferred not
to do so," said Armani.
Pale pink, coral and cinnamon lent femininity to light,
short, asymmetrical skirts, light, floating dresses, bermudas
and other shorts worn with boxy mini jackets with graphic,
heat-sealed floral motifs.
"In my opinion, it is a richer collection than usual,"
Armani said, quipping that the recent retro mania in fashion is
"not so much déjà vu as déjà' copied".
Emporio Armani's young woman has a sure sense of style,
with dusters to paisley shorts veiled in sheer organza, pants
and dresses dotted with soft pink gold highlights, as well as
leather tops and three-dimensional flowers on sequined dresses.
Meanwhile, Sportmax set a relaxed mood for spring and
summer inspired by 1960s futurism. Shiny, avant-garde fabrics
were mixed with cotton and natural silks. A-line minidresses
were matched with wedge sandals. Some garments were attached at
the neck with leather-mounted buckles while others sported
oversized pockets. Fluid dresses recalled the sea with navy
chain print motifs.
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