Blumarine, Emporio Armani, Sportmax

(ANSA) - Milan, September 25 - Italian fashion label Blumarine animated its spring women's ready-to-wear collection on Friday at Milan Fashion Week with a pragmatic, romantic spirit. Designer Anna Molinari, known for her hyper-feminine aesthetic, took inspiration from the androgenous Swiss journalist, writer and traveler Annemarie Schwarzenbach (1908-1942). "It is a collection that delicately reconciles opposites, in a search for suffused elegance," said Molinari.
    "Girls today all want to dress in different ways, so in the collection there are sexy chiffon dresses and pieces that could be haute couture for their intricate workmanship, but also wide canvas trousers and jackets with large pockets".
    Shapes are soft, like a blouse and skirt combo done in men's shirt cloth. But Molinari's signature floral and rose prints also graced the catwalk as well as long tulle gowns.
    Giorgio Armani's younger line, Emporio Armani, dressed models in pink and floral prints. Legs were on show, necks adorned with large rigid scarves, and boots featured open toes. "At a time when things are being overdone, I preferred not to do so," said Armani. Pale pink, coral and cinnamon lent femininity to light, short, asymmetrical skirts, light, floating dresses, bermudas and other shorts worn with boxy mini jackets with graphic, heat-sealed floral motifs.
    "In my opinion, it is a richer collection than usual," Armani said, quipping that the recent retro mania in fashion is "not so much déjà vu as déjà' copied". Emporio Armani's young woman has a sure sense of style, with dusters to paisley shorts veiled in sheer organza, pants and dresses dotted with soft pink gold highlights, as well as leather tops and three-dimensional flowers on sequined dresses. Meanwhile, Sportmax set a relaxed mood for spring and summer inspired by 1960s futurism. Shiny, avant-garde fabrics were mixed with cotton and natural silks. A-line minidresses were matched with wedge sandals. Some garments were attached at the neck with leather-mounted buckles while others sported oversized pockets. Fluid dresses recalled the sea with navy chain print motifs.