Arbesser unisex debut at Pitti Uomo

(By Patrizia Vacalebri) (ANSA) - Florence, June 17 - The first show at Pitti Uomo in unisex style, the theme suggested by the organisers of the Florentine salon with the Open section, took place on Wednesday with the presentation at the Leopolda Station of the new Arthur Arbesser collection.
    The promising Austrian designer, in full ascendancy, who after his studies at the Central Saint Martins College and seven years of collaboration with Giorgio Armani, founded his own brand debuting at the Milan women's shows and winning the Who's on next? Competition (he is one of the finalists in the Lvmh 2015 prize), put on the catwalk for the first time this morning a collection including men's outfits, investigating the 'agender' style and the points of contact between menswear and womenswear.
    Arbesser also took his inspiration from the ceramics production of Montelupo Fiorentino Bitossi, where he discovered a series of examples designed by Ettore Sottsass in the 1970s and 1980s, and other objects by lesser known artists who nourished his imagination and his search for new forms, colours and geometry.
    Against a background of a series of architectural designs conceived together with the architect Luca Cipelletti, who inserted into the Leopolda Station some classic pieces by Sottsass for Meemphis in the 1980s, creating a metaphysical atmosphere, Arbesser mixed feminine dresses with frills and curls to working overalls revisited in daubed fabrics and shorts for men, worn with bag blouses and duster coats, to which she replies with leggins and bodies spied from tulle coats.
    The shapes are upright and abundant, almost overly, but always controlled.