(By Patrizia Vacalebri)
The first show at Pitti Uomo
in unisex style, the theme suggested by the organisers of the
Florentine salon with the Open section, took place on Wednesday
with the presentation at the Leopolda Station of the new Arthur
Arbesser collection.
The promising Austrian designer, in full ascendancy, who
after his studies at the Central Saint Martins College and seven
years of collaboration with Giorgio Armani, founded his own
brand debuting at the Milan women's shows and winning the Who's
on next? Competition (he is one of the finalists in the Lvmh
2015 prize), put on the catwalk for the first time this morning
a collection including men's outfits, investigating the
'agender' style and the points of contact between menswear and
womenswear.
Arbesser also took his inspiration from the ceramics
production of Montelupo Fiorentino Bitossi, where he discovered
a series of examples designed by Ettore Sottsass in the 1970s
and 1980s, and other objects by lesser known artists who
nourished his imagination and his search for new forms, colours
and geometry.
Against a background of a series of architectural designs
conceived together with the architect Luca Cipelletti, who
inserted into the Leopolda Station some classic pieces by
Sottsass for Meemphis in the 1980s, creating a metaphysical
atmosphere, Arbesser mixed feminine dresses with frills and
curls to working overalls revisited in daubed fabrics and shorts
for men, worn with bag blouses and duster coats, to which she
replies with leggins and bodies spied from tulle coats.
The shapes are upright and abundant, almost overly, but
always controlled.
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