(by Elisa Cecchi).
(ANSA) - Rome, November 12 - Savile Row has long been the
only destination for lovers of traditional men's wear and
bespoke tailoring.
But the road that runs parallel to Regent's Street in
central London will soon have a contender in the heart of
Milan's fashion district, Via Gesù.
This quiet Milanese street at one time mainly known as home
to the house of Versace, is vying to become the epicentre of
Italian classic menswear.
As of January 17 next year, Via Gesù will become 'Via
dell'Uomo' (Man Street) under a project sponsored by leading
menswear trade fair Pitti Immagine, to kick off with the fashion
shows in Milan.
The project aims to promote this elegant street as an
unparalleled stopover for an international clientele of male
shoppers, smack inside the women's wear fashion district
Quadrilatero della moda, during the Milan Expo 2015 world's
fair.
Initiatives to publicize this location will gain momentum
throughout next year to coincide with Expo, which runs from May
1 until October 31, organizers said.
The idea to showcase the road as an oasis of men's fashion
was first launched last summer by Caruso CEO Umberto Angeloni,
founder of the Uman brand.
Today, Angeloni is part of a new consortium grouping all
stores on Via Gesù, as well as its residents and Vincenzo
Finizzola, general manager of the Four Seasons Hotel on the
street, to co-sponsor the initiative.
The 270-meter-long Via Gesù has progressively become a
corridor of traditional men's wear and tailoring.
The Neapolitan tailor Kiton enlarged its shop on Via Gesù
two years ago.
Caruso is opening a 400-square-meter store in January, in a
boutique previously occupied by Saint Laurent.
And last June, Brioni opened its latest and largest store
here.
The prestigious Roman luxury men's wear couture house - the
suit-maker to presidents and the financial elite best known for
dressing James Bond in black tie - had long had a small store on
Via Gesù.
The new flagship at number 2A replaced it.
At three stories high, it is a much bolder statement of
purpose for a company known for its superb hand-sewn custom
suits, which was founded in 1945 and is now part of luxury group
Kering.
Also last summer, though right around the corner on Via San
Pietro all'Orto, another prestigious tailoring store celebrated
its opening, Boglioli.
Customers strolling down Via Gesù can also go into Luciano
Barbera, Zilli, the atelier-library Uman, shoemakers' Barrett,
Doucal's and Silvano Lattanzi.
Shirt-makers Barba, perfume store Acqua di Parma and
Salvati's watches are other local attractions, alongside
multi-brand boutique Doriani e Tincati.
Other leading tailors with a store on Via Gesù include
Tindaro De Luca, Rubinacci and Stefano Ricci.
And Florentine tailor Ricci - which posted turnover of 126
million euros in 2013, up 42% from the previous year - is a
testament to the growing relevance worldwide of the male
consumer of Italian fashion.
The Italian menswear market was worth 8.6 billion euros
last year, helping sector revenues grow 1% from the previous
year in crisis-stricken Italy, according to data provided by the
Italian federation of fashion businesses Sistema Moda Italia.
According to a 2013 study on the luxury sector by
consulting firm Bain & Company, the men's ready-to-wear market
has outpaced women's wear, increasing between 9 and 13%
year-on-year, since the start of the economic downturn in 2009.
Indeed Prada, once predominantly a women's wear label,
announced last April that it aims to nearly double its men's
wear sales to 1.5 billion euros over the next three to five
years.
The label is planning to add 50 more dedicated men's shops
to tap the growing men's wear market.
Milan's answer to Savile Row
Men's brands establish themselves in heart of fashion district