Italian farmers' association
Coldiretti on Sunday slammed an article published by the
Financial Times that it claims mounts a "surreal attack" on
traditional Italian food.
The article, titled 'Everything I, an Italian, thought I knew
about Italian food is wrong', challenges received ideas about
some of the "classics" of Italian cuisine, suggesting that they
are "actually recent inventions".
Coldiretti described the article as "a surreal attack on the
iconic dishes of Italian cuisine, precisely on the occasion of
the announcement of its candidacy for UNESCO's Intangible
Heritage of Humanity."
The article "tries to trivialize traditional national food, from
carbonara to panettone, from tiramisu to Parmigiano Reggiano,"
said the agricultural organization, adding that many of the
claims were "imaginative".
Coldiretti also warned of the possible economic consequences of
such claims, as well as of the damage to image.
"The lack of clarity on Made in Italy recipes in fact provides
fertile ground for the proliferation of fake Italian food
products abroad," it said.
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