Milan men's fashion week, scheduled
June 14-17, has become coed with a long weekend that also
includes women's fashion.
On the agenda are 52 collections in 25 runway shows and 21
presentations, accompanied by 26 events organised by, among
others, Stella McCartney, Prada, and Gucci.
Carlo Capasa, president of the National Chamber of Italian
Fashion, spoke about the evolution of the event.
"In September we have many men's and women's runway shows;
for us it would be important to separate them," Capasa said.
"The data, which show men's exports at 39% of the total and a
full 55% to non-EU countries, should push brands to put men back
as the focus," he said.
"Perhaps it's worth it to reflect on bringing men's runway
shows back to the week dedicated to them, but of course it's up
to the brands to decide," he said.
In addition to the coed runway shows, of which there are
seven in June, also gaining steam in the sector is the
"decontextualised" runway show, and not only for cruise wear.
"I don't think this format will have a big following," Capasa
said.
"It damages the system, and in the medium and long term also
its business, because the aggregation of a fashion week isn't
comparable to that of a single event," he said.
"I think in the end also the large brands are penalised,
because when you leave spaces open there's always someone who
will take them," he said.
In terms of the agenda for June 14-17, Ermenegildo Zegna will
present its runway show on the evening of the 14th; while
Giorgio Armani will close the event on the 17th at 5 p.m.,
returning after 18 years for a runway show in via Borgonuovo as
well as presenting a collection for the first time at the
brand's historic headquarters in Palazzo Orsini.
Also returning for runway shows are Milano Etro, Palm Angels,
and Philipp Plein, with debuts including Youser, David Catalan,
Edithmarcel and Miguel Vieria.
Capasa denied a rumour that Victoria Beckham would be
collaborating for the closing party.
"We're working on something different, but equally
significant," he said.
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