Workmanship gives new power to noble classics at Pitti
Military inspirations revamp fashion staples09 January, 15:30
Tailored suits become relevant for the modern man as designers explore new territory in fall-winter 2014 collections debuting at the 85th edition of the biannual international event on January 7-10.
Slim-fitted jackets in jerseys and flannels convey the image of a deliberate, elegant contrast to soft pants at tailor Lardini. Jackets and coats are reversible with classic fabrics on one side and edgy patterns on the other - again playing for contrast.
And if jackets with the new 'Easy' line and 'Regimental' college-style in fine wools and Shetlands nod to the British gentleman who has inspired menswear showcased at Pitti season after season, the knitted smoking jacket and down waistcoat to be worn under a classic suit vie to re-discover classic fashion territory.
The classic-modern contrast is also part of Gabriele Pasini's designs which rekindle the quirky side of fabrics.
Gobelin tapestries inspire standout pieces like a chenille smoking jacket with black satin lapels.
Sartorial suits are made out of waxed cotton while jersey jackets in a macho camouflage pattern are in pale shades of purple and green. The 1970s are revisited in three-piece suits and classic trousers with front pleats in soft flannels with jacquard and striped patterns.
Menswear staples are also revamped at Massimo Rebecchi where contemporary vibes contribute to a playful mix of dandy and military inspirations.
Rebecchi's focus is on tailored silhouettes with a quirk - jackets are in boiled wool fabric, with the classic mountain-style buttons used for loden coats.
The smoking jacket, already a hit in fashion land this winter with studded and camo versions, is re-interpreted in patterns including jacquards, brocades and geometric patterns.
Brunello Cunicelli, whose empire built on neutrally-coloured cashmere knitwear is expected to grow 15% in 2013, is showing a collection featuring as standout piece the overcoat.
Fashion's endless fascination with all things army and the British landed gentry is apparent in Cucinelli's new models: the Navy-style double-breasted Nautilus coat with metal buttons, the army coat echoing the uniform of Prussian officers and the Burlington, fit for a country gentleman.
Coats are always above the knee and sport cashmere, alpaca and buckskin collars and lapels in classic, dark colours embracing different shades of grey, blue, green and burgundy.
For winter 2014 Cucinelli also brushes off a new version of the riding coat, the caban jacket and a menswear staple - the waistcoat.
And the guest designer of this Pitti edition, Renzo Rosso's top label Diesel Black Gold, also reworks classic menswear staples with the label's trademark irreverent verve.
Norwegian-born designer Andreas Melbostad, whose first menswear collection for the brand was unveiled at a fashion show on Wednesday night, gives a bolder twist to the rebellious spirit which has always been part of Diesel's DNA.
His biker and bomber jackets are covered with trophy brooches and metal details echoing high military uniforms, the fur-lined parka has an edgy cocoon shape and denim pants are reworked into super slim silhouettes and revisited with edgy workmanship.
Classic pieces are again revamped with a firm eye on military styles and a strong rock'n'roll vibe.
The clean-cut flannel, wool and poplin jackets and coats are perfectly tailored yet mixed with he-man leather and studs.
Coats, parkas and accessories - including deluxe combat boots - are all about the undying appeal of the military man which bows to Italy's sartorial excellence while playing with a subversive spirit seen in the sapient mix of leather and fabrics like sparkly denims.
Melbostad also showcased six military-inspired womenswear looks in black and a touch of camouflage as a preview of the womenswear full collection to hit the New York runway next month.
Diesel Black Gold promoted its womenswear creative director Andreas Melbostad to overall creative director in September 2013.
Melbostad joined the label in October 2012 having previously worked at Donna Karan, Calvin Klein, Nina Ricci and Yves Saint Laurant.