Milan fashion week has opened
its doors after runway shows in New York and London.
Over 170 collections for fall-winter 2019-2020 will be
debuted until February 25 during fashion shows, presentations
and special events by key houses for an increasingly
international and restructured fashion extravaganza.
Milan fashion week opened Tuesday with the runway debut of
the United Colors of Benetton collection designed by
Jean-Charles de Castelbajac.
The designer took his first bow on the catwalk as creative
director of the knitwear company with a tribute to Karl
Lagerfeld, who died on Tuesday.
Castelbajac said he hoped to emulate at Benetton what
Lagerfeld did for Fendi and Chanel by breathing new life into
the DNA of the fashion houses, debuting a collection that paid
homage to the brand's colorful heritage.
A 'rainbow machine' was the inspiration of Benetton's co-ed
presentation with the label's logo and trademark octopus symbol
giving a fresh branding message to paired-down looks as well as
more dressed-up pieces.
In another debut, Sweden's Gunn Johansson presented his first
collection for Milan Schon, which is owned by the Itochu group.
The designer, who previously worked at Agnona, debuted a
clean aesthetic with coats playing the lead role.
In particular, a typical "city coat" with gold buttons and a
kimono model embodied the designer's "clean, essential" vision
"in the respect of the brand's DNA, which I find in the work
done by Milan Schon in the 1960s and 1970s", said Johansson.
The fusion of men's wear and women's wear, of oversized and
slim silhouettes dominated at Aspesi with typical masculine
fabrics like Glen plaid and herringbone, softened by a feminine
palette and floral motifs.
The house's icons, from trench coats to blazers and silk
shirts stole the limelight while a women's wear staple - the
skirt - was long and pleated.
Brunello Cucinelli's collection was called 'Minimal allure'.
Craftsmanship and neutral colors highlighted the impact of
sophisticated details of pieces including a tuxedo and a
cashmere bomber jacket that required 20 hours of handmade work.
A 1970s vibe gave pizzazz to knits while 1990s minimalism
echoed in the black-and-white pieces and the generous use of
nappa leather, including in an ankle-grazing statement skirt.
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED © Copyright ANSA