Sportswear and casual staples
are getting a sartorial makeover at the ongoing 91st edition of
international menswear trade fair Pitti Uomo in Florence.
The 1,220 labels, including 540 from abroad, debuting
fall-winter 2017 menswear collections through Friday are
focusing on sportswear to roll out collections of luxury
casualwear for men who want to dress down but with style and
panache.
A casual brand like Roy Roger's has cooperated with another
Florentine label, the atelier Liverano, to turn its iconic
five-pockets jeans into 'sartorial' pants with a looser fit and
funky lining.
The label PT01 Pantaloni Torino has jockeyed for attention
with a nod to Peter Weir's 1989 film Dead Poet's Society with
trousers in flannel and yarn-dyed fabrics with an
antiquated-gold button styled to look like a signer ring.
And the sporty-classic bug has caught a brand like Mason's
which has infused military notes into a rock-and-roll
inspiration with a capsule collection including studs and patch
details and black camouflage patterns.
Z Zegna under the new creative direction of Alessandro
Sartori was inspired by the brand's skiwear in the 1970s with a
deluxe ski suit in Techmerino wool with 'Icon Warmer' technology
fit for sub-freezing temperatures and a colorful collection of
super-light sneakers.
Umbria tailor Cruciani has designed a cardigan-style jacket
in baby alpaca while Manuel Ritz has fully embraced the
sportswear storyline with jogging-style pants in jersey and
wool.
Paul Smith's PS collection debut at Pitti Uomo was inspired
by the designer's beloved world of cycling for the label's
globetrotting clientele with reversible, anti-pleat jackets,
windbreakers, bombers designed to fit into tiny bags and
trousers styled like jogging pants.
One of the windbreakers comes in high-visibility polka dots.
George Miller's 1979 film Mad Max and motorcycle gangs
inspired the collection presented by Belgian designer Tim
Coppens in the first debut of his line in Europe after five
consecutive years in New York.
And another key attraction of this edition of Pitti Uomo was
Florentine tailor Stefano Ricci's fashion show in Palazzo
Pitti's White Hall, where Giovan Battista Giorgini in 1952
launched Italy's first steps in the global fashion industry and
where no fashion show has been held for the past 35 years.
Ricci celebrated the brand's 45-year anniversary with a high
fashion menswear collection inspired by its hometown Florence as
a "capital of style".
The deluxe classic tailoring was made to fit six different
age groups, from children to older men, with different themes to
carry gentlemen from day and eveningwear.
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