(By Elisa Cecchi).
Domenico Dolce and Stefano
Gabbana played up the symbols of Italian beauty that have long
shaped their creativity for the Dolce & Gabbana spring-summer
2017 women's wear collection, one of the high-profile shows of
Milan fashion week, which is wrapping up on Monday.
Italian iconography inspired prints including spaghetti and
Murano glass on classic in-house silhouettes debuted on the
catwalk Sunday.
The rich aesthetic morphed matador jackets and loose coats
encrusted with large paillettes in bold colors, among others, in
a display infused with youth and pizzazz.
And the storyline for spring included Dolce & Gabbana
classics such as boldly patterned shirts and an array of sexy
black dresses with statement accessories - all imbued with an
extra dose of exuberance.
Overall, key collections debuted in Milan over the past
week have paid homage to heritage while heralding innovation.
Alessandro Michele's artsy bohemian aesthetic that has
revolutionized Gucci in recent seasons set the tone for this
blend of timeless and trendy vibes.
The stunning collection embraced a multitude of
inspirations, including one of fashion's most beloved decade -
the 1970s - with denim bell bottoms and slim jackets.
Peter Dundas at Roberto Cavalli also went back to the
decade that made the Florence house, via the hippy route, with
patchwork jeans and striped blazers that upped the ante of the
revival of the 1970s suit.
Bellbottoms and cropped jackets also left a mark at
Giambattista Valli's Giamba collection.
Heritage played a key role at Bottega Veneta's 50th
anniversary show with a homage to the fashion house's
craftsmanship and understated minimalism.
Fulvio Rigoni, head of design for Salvatore Ferragamo
women's ready-to-wear, debuted Sunday after the departure of
Massimiliano Giornetti, the longtime creative director, with a
play on femininity and sportswear.
Floral dresses and crisp, slim suits in solid colors went
down the catwalk along with sporty separates.
Shoes - the house's emblem - included chunky wedges and a
crocheted sock silhouette playing up the sporty vibe.
Consuelo Castiglioni at Marni on Sunday pursued her unique
storyline, detached from mainstream fashion, to evolve an artsy
aesthetic for next summer with neutrals and her trademark
prints, including dainty micro florals.
Asymmetric pleats and sleeves, along with large
poacher-pocket bags, added a sculptural note to the collection,
mixed with Marni's trademark jewelry.
The last leg of the month-long women's wear fashion month
opens in Paris on Tuesday through October 5.
Italian fashion houses to debut their spring-summer 2017
collections in the French capital will include Valentino on
Sunday, when Pier Paolo Piccioli will make his first solo debut
as creative director of the Rome-based house since Maria Grazia
Chiuri was hired at Dior.
The duo spent 17 years at Valentino, eight as co-creative
directors.
Chiuri, Dior's new artistic director of women's couture,
ready-to-wear and accessories, will show her first collection on
Friday.
Miu Miu will close Paris fashion week on Wednesday, October
5.
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