Coats in a lean, thin or
military style are set to be the protagonists of men's fashion
in the next winter season, according to labels taking part in
the 89th edition of the Pitti Uomo men's style trade show.
"The Coat" has also been chosen as the name for a party at
Florence's Cinema Teatro Odeon on Tuesday evening which will
open the Pitti Uomo event.
This is also the location for a presentation of the
Archivio collection by Paltò, an Italian brand which gains
inspiration for its coats from famous film actors.
Luca Paganelli founded the brand in 2013 after working with
Alexander McQueen and Tom Ford.
The Tuscan firm could be considered the "coat factory"
where the values of traditional and elegant Italian tailoring
are rediscovered, down to the last detail.
In its Archivio presentation, Paltò pays homage to the
materials that have helped make the coat an icon of style and
grace.
In between Paltò designs from the 1950s and 1960s,
including tweed and check styles, images are relayed of cult
film scenes including Marlon Brando in Last Tango in Paris and
Burt Lancaster in Conversation Piece.
Greta Garbo appears in images from Anna Karenina and
Silvana Mangano in The Great War.
Fashion brand Zerosettanta Studio is also heading back to
its archives, rediscovering 1960s style in Italy while adding a
more ecologically friendly element by including recycled
materials.
They have ruled out added colours, chemical intervention
and use of acids. All production processes run on sustainable
electricity and have close to zero environmental impact.
Their collection aims for elegant formality coupled with an
innately youthful desire to see things from outside the box.
Meanwhile tailors Lardini have drawn on military themes for
their collection, inspired by the uniforms of the U.S. air force
and marines as well as the British and Russian armies.
According to menswear designer Luigi Bianchi di Mantova,
the coat is the new king of the wardrobe, in tweed or light
camelhair.
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