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Peace and love dominate spring trends

Peace and love dominate spring trends

Styles include a touch of the utilitarian

Rome, 02 April 2015, 15:00

Redazione ANSA

ANSACheck

- ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

-     ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
- ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

  For many in and out of the fashion industry, the 1970s will always be the decade that style forgot.
    But on catwalks across both sides of the Atlantic in recent seasons, the controversial decade has been a common thread among top designers.
    Indeed, many of the signature looks for spring would seem perfectly suitable for a night out at New York's iconic club Studio 54 or for a Joni Mitchell concert. Pucci's tie-dyes and flare pants, Gucci's patch-worked fur vests, Alberta Ferretti's fringed suede dresses and powder-pink numbers, Etro's ethnic boho clothes or Chloe's trapeze flowing dresses for this spring and summer provide a sophisticated take on the 1970s.
    Tod's offerings include oversized looks while Dolce & Gabbana vie for flower power - a botanical inspiration that has even lured the streamlined Marni and Céline.
    Yet this era's staying power, reverberating across spring collections, has very little to do with nostalgia - avant-garde designer Dries Van Noten went so far as staging a hippie sit-in for his spring 2015 show - and more with its innovative spirit.
    For the 1970s were key to launching comfort and androgyny in fashion as a way to empower women, giving birth to roomy handbags and mannish-inspired tailoring for women with a career and an attitude to match.
    This spring also sees a return to the codes of masculine dressing with androgynous-style suits playing for contrast with the more feminine take on the 1970s.
    The fashion-forward Giambattista Valli and Phoebe Philo at Céline experimented with black-and-white suits echoing Bianca Jagger's white tuxedos.
    Adding a pinch of the 1970s to the sophisticated mix, tops become longer and minimalist with both designers accessorizing with statement necklaces. Meanwhile, if hippy deluxe was a key twist of spring collections, designers vied for singularity with contrasting borrowings on their mood boards.
    Indeed, the flip side of the predominant peace-and-love mood is a clear military undercurrent.
    A staple for fighter pilots, soldiers and technicians, the jumpsuit is all the rage this season with a couture edge bestowed by a number of fashion houses including Pucci.
    And the military vibe did not just embrace ground and air troops but also went nautical with top designers such as Marc Jacobs and Antony Vaccarello setting sail with silhouettes echoing a sailor's uniform.
    Meanwhile, the utilitarian fad has seen a stark revival of denims and khakis - 'evergreens' since hitting the catwalks over four decades ago, which this season offer a sexy take on a number of military silhouettes.
    Overall, this spring's recycling of the 1970s proved just how innovative revisionism can be, with an individual makeover of fabrics, prints and silhouettes giving modern rhythm to a classic tune.
    This ranged from Marni's edgy patchwork ensembles to Hedi Slimane's mercurial reading of the sexed-up vibe of Studio 54.
   

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